• 4 June 2026, The Abenteuer & Allrad show, Bad Kissingen

    Breakfast from eight, and a wide spread to choose from. The bacon was the surprise: cooked properly, crisp without a film of grease on the plate, which is rare when a kitchen is feeding a full dining room at once. I took the cooked breakfast, a couple of pastries afterwards and coffee. Ochi had the cooked breakfast with fresh fruit, and was offered hot almond milk for her coffee, a small courtesy that pleased her.

    Ten minutes by road to Bad Kissingen. We arrived early enough to take a place on the hard standing, of which there are only about a hundred. After that, cars are sent onto the grass, and the recent showers had left it too soft for the old vehicle, so the early start earned its keep. The show occupies a nature reserve, and movement on and off the ground is tightly controlled for that reason. By my reckoning the event has grown a great deal in both exhibitors and visitors across the twenty-odd years it has run.

    The queue for the event coaches was already fairly long when we joined it, but far better managed than in the previous two years, when it had been a scramble with no order to it. This time there was a proper queue. The first coach came after about a quarter of an hour and we boarded the fifth, a ten-minute ride to the gates. They opened at ten; we were through at a little after a quarter past. Most people begin at the gates and work inward, so that end was crowded, and we went straight across to the far side and worked back towards the exit. We spent some five hours on the ground.

    The first stand of any interest belonged to a firm (camping-pioneers) specialising in roof-top tents and in-vehicle table mountings, neither of which we want. What caught my eye instead were their own folding camping chairs, light and strong and genuinely comfortable, and a set of bamboo folding stools and a table of the Qeedo make. I flagged both for later thought rather than purchase.

    Then to the first of the day’s real targets (Clesana), a maker of toilets that seal waste into a high-barrier bag for disposal, with no water and no chemicals involved. The company comes out of medical hygiene and moved into travel only a couple of years ago, first with a built-in model and then, this January, with a portable version. We had seen the portable one briefly at the Caravan Salon in Düsseldorf last year and wanted longer with it. It suits us almost exactly: small, light, battery-powered, easily moved. They were not selling on the day. The distributor sits in Scotland, and we were told that a trader near the gates was stocking them.

    Directly opposite stood a water-treatment specialist (Purion), and water treatment was one of the chief reasons for the trip. They offer flexible, hard-wearing components for keeping stored water clean and disinfected without chemicals: filter housings that take standard cartridge sizes obtainable anywhere in the world, together with a UV-C lamp and driver to cycle the tank. A strong candidate for the build, and one I left thinking well of.

    The find of the day was not on my list at all. A maker of recirculating showers (Dauer Shower), which solves a problem I have turned over for a couple of years. In a small van lived in full time, every litre of water must be carried, and a litre weighs a kilogram and fills a ten-centimetre cube. That is real weight and real volume, both competing with everything else aboard, and a shower is among the worst offenders for getting through water. The obstacle to recycling shower water has always been soap, which is awkward to separate, so existing systems tend to be either large, heavy and power-hungry or else they eat filters, neither acceptable in a van this size. Their answer is a hybrid. You shower in circulation mode for as long as you like, the water kept hot and clean through an easy-clean, long-life filter and using only a couple of litres; then you switch off, soap up, and run a short burst in fresh-water mode straight to the grey tank, so there is no soap to extract from the recirculated water at all. The maker quotes around five litres and 0.15 kWh per shower; my own guess is six to ten, set against the much heavier draw of an ordinary shower. I will write to them once we are home.

    Energy storage next. The living side of the vehicle has long been held back by voltage: the usual twelve volts demands thick, heavy cable for anything that draws hard, which is to say cooling, heating and cooking. I have wanted to move to forty-eight volts for some time, but the kit has been scarce and dear. An Australian (Egon) firm announced a forty-eight-volt architecture in prototype last year and brought the first version to general sale this month, so forty-eight-volt batteries are now the thing required. This stand (Liontron) had a fifty-amp-hour forty-eight-volt unit on show, about 2.5 kWh; four in parallel would give ample capacity at roughly a hundred kilograms. Worth taking further.

    A heating make (Scheer) new to me, though my heating plan is more or less settled, showed a diesel hydronic heater that holds a blue flame even from cold start through careful control of the air-to-diesel mix, which gives a clean, soot-free burn (typically these types of devices run a yellow, inefficient flame until at full burn temperature). I need heat for the living quarters, both underfloor and blown, for hot water, and for pre-heating the engine in very cold places. This unit is larger and heavier than I had imagined, and it draws on both AC and DC, which adds complexity, but it interested me, and the person on the stand had genuine technical depth.

    The mattress question took up a good while at the stand of an Austrian maker (Flexima) of made-to-measure beds for vehicles, handmade. I want a bed left permanently made up rather than rebuilt from the seating each night. A roof-drop bed would cost too much height in a van already tall, with its raised suspension and large off-road wheels, so the plan is a bed that folds in two and stands upright at the rear when not in use. The mattress therefore has to be relatively thin, light and foldable down the middle, yet still comfortable after years of use. I tried two of theirs and found both very comfortable. The foam carries internal plastic spring elements that can be adjusted to firm or soften different zones, which I had not seen before. I spoke with Chris Schoneman, their Benelux director, and came away expecting this to be our choice. I mean to post a CAD drawing of the internal layout in a later entry.

    A British company trading (GN Espace) from Widford in Hertfordshire, with a long history of supplying the marine trade, showed induction hobs and multifunction sinks that looked very well made. Worth another conversation.

    We returned to a maker of hanging chairs of the hammock kind (Mira Art), which appealed to Ochi last year. We tried them again and liked them again. I have a suspension solution in mind already, so the difficulty is the weight and stowage of the parts rather than the chairs themselves. A luxury, to be settled last if there is capacity to spare.

    I spent time with Michael Iglhaut, whose firm (Iglhaut) converted our vehicle into the capable off-roader it is back in 2000. That connection matters for the future: access to their knowledge of the vehicle and to their own parts as things wear or break, so I am glad to be building the acquaintance.

    By the exit stood the trader we had been told about, and he had the Clesana X1 portable toilet in stock. We bought it there and then, so the van now has its toilet, the one firm purchase of the day.

    So the day’s reckoning: the toilet bought; the Austrian mattress now the likely answer for the folding rear bed. Carried forward as candidates or jobs to do are the water-treatment components, the forty-eight-volt storage to match the new architecture, the diesel heater for further investigation, the recirculating shower to be contacted from home, the British induction hob and sink for another conversation, the folding chairs and bamboo stools flagged, and the hanging chairs left to last on grounds of weight and stowage. I took no photographs as I was too focused on the exhibitors.

    Coach back to the car, the short drive to Kunzmann’s, and a look round the hotel’s spa before dinner at a quarter to seven. The local wines the hotel recommended were very good, but I failed to note their names, which I regret; I shall record tomorrow evening’s recommendations so they at least appear in the next day’s pages.

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  • 3 June 2026, Kunzmann’s Hotel, Bad Bocklet, Germany

    Up and out by quarter to five, the house still dark, the road emptier than I have seen it in months. There is a particular quiet to that hour, neither night nor properly morning, when the only other vehicles are lorries, early commuters and the odd dog-walker’s car. We took the Mercedes SL280, a 1997 model, with the soft top up and kept up the whole way. The hard top is at home; the soft top means that when the summer weather does arrive we can have it down and enjoy the driving properly, which is some consolation for the noise it lets in. The weather today could not make up its mind, so the decision to keep it closed made itself.

    Breakfast at the Folkestone LeShuttle terminal, at Leon’s, before the crossing. I had an egg and bacon bap and a coffee; Ochi had a coffee with soya milk and not much else. We sat among the usual early travellers and watched the boards for our shuttle. There were others plainly bound for the same sort of long weekend as us: a knot of sports cars gathered together, the drivers comparing routes in the way men do over coffee at six in the morning, off on some group run south; and a band of Harley riders in their leathers. Now and again one of them would fire up an engine out on the apron, and the sound carried right into the terminal, the deep throaty roar of a V8 answered by the slower, looser beat of the V-twins. A good noise to set off on.

    The crossing itself was the one small surprise of the day. We had braced ourselves for the new EES biometric registration at the border, fingerprints and photographs and the queues everyone has been warning about, and instead the checks were simply closed. We went straight through to French passport control and out the other side without breaking stride. I assume this was a temporary suspension to keep the traffic moving rather than a system not yet switched on, for I gather it has been fully live since the tenth of April.

    After that the day became the drive, and the drive was a good one. France, then Belgium, then into Germany, the roads relatively empty and the progress constant. Three stops on the European side, more or less evenly spaced: a short leg-stretch at the first, food and fuel in the middle, another short stretch near the end. The car drove very well for its age. A little noisy, as the soft top, insulated though it is, does not seal out the world the way the hard top does, so there was always a layer of wind and road under everything. The steering is vague and uncommunicative, but that is how these were built, and after the first hour the hands stop expecting anything else. Around thirty miles to the gallon throughout, which I was pleased with.

    I treated it at the middle stop. The pumps offered 100 RON unleaded, ethanol-free, a step up from the 95 we run at home, and I bought it on the car’s behalf rather than my own, at something close to two euros fifty a litre. Shell, I think, though I did not check closely. An indulgence, plainly, but the engine is older than a good many of the drivers on that autobahn and has earned the better stuff.

    We played music most of the way, a long eclectic mixture of rock and jazz and classical with a little funk thrown in, the sort of programme that only assembles itself properly on a long drive. We finished, somewhere in the last stretch, with Pink Floyd’s ‘Delicate Sound of Thunder’, the live album, for by then we had turned off the autobahn for the final hour and were running through forest and open country instead. It was unexpectedly lovely: the road folding in under dark stands of trees, then opening out across fields of a green so deep and wet-looking it seemed almost lit from within, the hills rising soft and wooded ahead. After a day of motorway it was like changing register entirely. The talk, between songs, kept circling back to tomorrow and the show, what we wanted to see, which exhibitors to take first, what we might actually buy as opposed to merely covet.

    We reached Kunzmann’s at half past five, local time, near enough twelve hours after leaving home once the hour’s difference is accounted for. Reception was courteous and unfussy and we were shown up to the room without delay. It is clean and more than large enough, of a quality I had hoped for, and the view is the thing:

    south over the parkland, tall spruce, a broad lawn with a giant chess set laid out on it, swing seats and chairs scattered about, a timber cabin, gravel paths threading between, and beyond the meadow the wooded hills. No photograph ever quite holds that depth of green, though I attach one here and let it try.

    Dinner at quarter to seven, half board. It was good, properly cooked and properly served, without a single dish that demanded to be remembered. That is no complaint. It was the reason we changed our minds about where to stay this year: last summer we had an à la carte dinner here that was very good indeed for both the quality and the price, enough to draw us away from the guest houses we used the previous two years. This is our third year running at the show and our first night under this roof, and the decision feels sound so far.

    To bed early, or what passes for early after a day that began before five. Tomorrow the Abenteuer & Allrad at Bad Kissingen, four days of it though we only need the one, more than four hundred exhibitors across off-road, caravanning and overlanding, expedition vehicles and motorhomes and all the equipment that goes with them. That is properly a matter for tomorrow’s entry.

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  • I’m back, and the diary starts again

    I’ve been off-message, off-brand, off me box this past long while, head down in the slog of it, and not a word posted to show for it. That ends here.

    A short word on where the time went, and then the good part. The house and garden have eaten more of these last six months than I care to admit, scrubbed, mended and made presentable for sale, because the travelling years do not begin until someone else holds the keys to this place. It is dull work and I will not dwell on it. It is nearly done.

    What I will dwell on is the van. Morrison is, as I write, stripped back to the bare shell, every system out, the metalwork laid open and honest before me, mid-way through a restoration thorough enough to earn the next quarter-century. There is a great deal to tell, the turbo, the steering, the great interior strip-down and all that has followed, and I mean to tell it properly in catch-up entries as the time comes. It has not been silence for want of doing. Quite the opposite.

    But a van under restoration is a van going nowhere, and a blog needs the open road as much as the workshop. So before the catch-ups begin, something different.

    The next four entries that follow this one are not about Morrison at all. They are from a long weekend Ochi and I took at the start of June, driving the old SL280 across to Germany for the Abenteuer & Allrad show at Bad Kissingen, four days of it set down as they happened: the drive out, the show ground and everything on it we coveted or carried home, and two slower days in a Bavarian spa town that has quietly become a place we return to. The show is where a good deal of the habitation plan took shape, the toilet, the mattress, the forty-eight-volt question, the recirculating shower, so it feeds directly back into the build even if there is not a spanner in sight.

    I will post them separately over the coming days. Read them as a breather between the heavy lifting, and as a reminder of what all the heavy lifting is actually for.

    The tools are still out. The work goes on. Watch this space, properly this time.

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  • The Maiden Voyage

    The transaction with Rory is complete, the keys have been handed over, and the vehicle is officially ours. Naturally, the euphoria of procurement was immediately tempered by the reality of the task at hand: the one hundred and thirty-mile transit to bring Morrison home.

    We were acutely aware during the initial test drive that the turbocharger was singing its swan song. It wasn’t yet making any truly catastrophic noises, so we took a calculated risk to limp it home. The journey was, to put it mildly, sedate. The single carriageway sections of the A303 provided their usual bottleneck, and given our reluctance to push the engine, I fear we may have been the architects of some significant tailbacks. If you were stuck behind a rather tentative-looking campervan recently, do accept my humblest apologies.

    It was during this long, slow procession that I had ample time to acquaint myself with the vehicle’s idiosyncrasies. I noted a distinct vagueness in the steering; play that felt beyond the usual character of such a machine. Then, to add a dash of adrenaline to the final leg, as we navigated the exit slip off the M25, the side door decided to liberate itself from the latch mechanism, sliding open entirely of its own accord. A spirited end to the journey, indeed.

    Safely back at headquarters, I have been able to conduct a proper post-mortem.

    Upon turning the key now, the turbo has developed a decided rattle. To prevent the impeller shattering and feeding metal shards into the engine, replacing this unit has become the highest priority. The vehicle shall remain grounded until this is rectified. The turbo was replaced only 8,000 miles ago, which, I think points the finger squarely at oil starvation. Consequently, I shall be examining the oil feed and return lines to ensure we do not find ourselves in this position again.

    The steering diagnosis proved slightly less grim. While oversized tyres invariably place undue stress on steering components, the issue does not appear to be the universal joint on the lower column (which was replaced relatively recently). Rather, the play seems to stem from a missing grommet where the column passes through the bulkhead. A simple fix, one hopes.

    Finally, the self-opening door. The diagnosis is straightforward, worn runners, but the remedy is less so. Accessing the mechanism requires the removal of the entire kitchen unit. While this turns a small job into a significant project, it is a blessing in disguise; stripping the interior will allow me to properly assess the condition of the internal metalwork.

    These three items: the turbo, the steering, and the great interior strip-down will form the basis of our next few entries. The real work begins now.

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  • The Torch is Passed it’s a New Era for Morrison

    Description

    Taking the keys to a legend is a heavy responsibility. When a vehicle has crossed the Sahara, navigated the Skeleton Coast, and clocked over 25 years of history, it stops being just a collection of metal and rubber. It becomes an archive of memories.
    We are Jason and Ochi, and we are the new custodians of Morrison.

    Description

    First and foremost, we want to send a massive thank you to Rory and Lucy. For a quarter of a century, they didn’t just drive this custom Iglhaut beast; they gave it a life. They proved that this van was built for the extraordinary, pushing it through revolutions, deserts, and 18 countries on a single run. We wish them nothing but fair winds and open roads in their future adventures. They have set a high bar for stewardship, and we intend to honour that legacy.

    But every great adventurer needs a moment to catch their breath, and Morrison has been resting for a little while.

    While the bones of this machine, the permanent 4-wheel drive, the diff locks, and that indomitable off-road suspension, are as solid as ever, the world of overlanding has evolved, and so too must the van. Our immediate goal isn’t just to drive it, but to recondition and retrofit it.

    The next few months on this blog won’t be about travel destinations, but about transformation. We are stripping things back to ensure Morrison is robust, reliable, and ready for the modern era. We plan to modernise the systems and inject a new level of comfort into the living quarters, ensuring that when the wheels finally turn in anger again, this van is ready for any corner of the globe we point it toward.

    We might be the ones holding the steering wheel and turning the wrenches, but this story belongs to the van. We are just here to make sure it’s ready for the next 100,000 miles.

    The tools are out. The work begins now.

    Watch this space.

    3 comments on The Torch is Passed it’s a New Era for Morrison
  • The next chapter of the Vanplan will start in a few days!

    The van has been sold and after a bit of TLC and some reconfiguration to cary a couple of bikes she will be off again.. watch this space to follow the next adventure.

  • The time has come to sell the van!

    Well after over 25 years of fun and adventure Morrison (the van ..get it… Van Morrison!) is for sale.The full specs are on the about the van page. We had a reconditioned engine and turbo after our second crossing of the Sahara (about 10,000 miles ago).

    This vehicle is a custom made Iglehaut specialist off road vehicle
    Permanent 4 wheel drive
    High and low ratio gearbox
    front, center and rear diffs
    Off road suspension (lateral leaf springs)

    All the usual kit inside:
    Proper 4 burner hob and grill
    2 fridges, one with small freezer
    loo
    2 showers (one inside and one outside)
    Large roof mounted solar panel
    240 volt inverter, power throughout
    swivel seats
    pull out double bed with storage under.
    large awning
    Water purifying system.

    hydraulic winch
    some spares.

  • After a few years of local UK trips and the odd European adventure we are planning a new trip.

    Turkey this Autumn, the plan is to drive through France,Germany.Austria,Slovenia, Bosnia and down the Adriatic Coast to cross into Turkey at the Canakkale Bridge. We will then drive to Datca leave the van there and fly home. Restarting in January 2024.

  • Shes on the move again!

    New engine, beefed up hydraulic winch and a bit of TLC, We decided to leave the dents….. we don’t want any “mutton dressed as lamb” jokes.
    We are off to live in Africa and will be based in Nairobi.

  • Just picked up the van

    Well what an adventure…despite a bit of random thievery on the boat on the way back and extensive use of our vans facility’s by the crew, the van is now safely back in England. MOT’d, Serviced, Repaired where necessary and ready to roll on the next stage of the plan.
    We have decided that the next trip wont be another 12 month-er so Summer 2012 to Turkey and East is on the cards giving us time to gather our strength